Your Desert Questions, Answered — Movies, Martinis & Mountain Views

Hello and welcome to the latest edition of Ask Lindsay! This month, I’m answering your questions about everything from Italian restaurants and movies filmed in the desert to my (not-so-great) experience on the Palm Springs Aerial Tramway.

XO, Lindsay

Any recs for good Italian spots in the desert?

An Instagram follower recently reached out asking where to find the best Italian restaurants in the desert, and I was only too happy to help. In case any readers have the same query, these are the places I find myself recommending again and again—from longtime desert favorites to newer additions that have quickly become part of my dining rotation.

Trattoria Tiramisu (pictured) –  While by no means new (the eatery was established by the Sicilian-born Corsetti brothers back in 2004), my family only recently discovered this spot, and it’s already become a go-to. The menu is chock-full of standouts, from the Pollo alla Piccata (my favorite) to the Pappardelle alla Bolognese and the Carpaccio di Manzo.

Castelli’s Ristorante – A Palm Desert institution (and a celebrity favorite, with a bevy of signed headshots to prove it), this restaurant has been serving up stellar Italian fare since 1988 when it was opened by brothers Michael and John Castelli. Little of the menu has changed since then, with the eatery still offering the same fabulous family recipes and Old World feel today.

Ristorante Mamma Gina – Another Palm Desert staple with one of the best happy hours in town, this spot originally opened back in 1986. Family-owned and operated (with a sister restaurant in Northern Florence), the menu is filled with authentic Florentine favorites, including Lasagna della Casa and Zuppa di Funghi (my preferred dishes).

Piero’s PizzaVino – My pick for pizza – authentic Neapolitan-style pizzas, made with imported doppio zero flour and crisped to perfection in a brick oven brought over from Naples. The non-pizza offerings are just as delicious, especially the Fried Zucchini Blossoms, Grilled Artichokes, Rigatoni Bolognese, and Meatballs “Napoli Style.”

Italica – This speakeasy hidden behind an unmarked silver door in downtown Indio is one of the chicest spots in the desert! Everything here is done with a flourish, from the handcrafted cocktails to the sumptuous Italian fare. I love the Pinsa Romano, a delectable flatbread topped with fig jam, goat cheese, prosciutto, arugula, Calabrian chili oil, and lemon zest.

I’ve also heard that Trattoria Mezzomondo in Palm Desert and Trilussa Ristorante in Cathedral City are excellent, but I’ve yet to try them.

Favorite movies filmed in the Valley?

The Coachella Valley has played a starring role in everything from Oscar-winning dramas to quirky comedies. While Don’t Worry Darling has gotten much of the attention as of late, these are the five Valley-filmed movies I’d recommend adding to your watchlist.

Bugsy – For the filming of this 1991 gangster classic, a Coachella storefront then housing George’s Men’s Store (pictured) was transformed into George’s Las Vegas Casino, the humble gambling hall that inspires Warren Beatty to dream big. The movie’s signage remained on the building for decades after filming wrapped and can still be spotted in historic Google Street View imagery today—a fun reminder of Hollywood’s time in the desert. The production also built an elaborate recreation of the Flamingo Hotel & Casino on a dusty stretch of nearby Ocotillo Wells. More than 30 years later, the film remains one of my favorite desert-shot flicks.

Ocean’s Eleven – Stylish, clever, and endlessly rewatchable, this heist classic never gets old. A modernist Old Las Palmas estate, originally designed by A. Quincy Jones in 1957, plays a starring role as Elliott Gould’s residence, where George Clooney and his crew hatch their plan to rob three of Las Vegas’ most prestigious casinos.

Mack & Rita – Yes, it’s cheesy, but in the best possible way. Diane Keaton is utterly charming as a thirty-something woman who suddenly finds herself living in her 70-year-old body after undergoing a “past life regression” inside of a roadside Regress and Be Blessed tent. If the setting looks familiar, that’s because the scene was filmed in the vacant lot next to Copley’s on Palm Canyon.

Behind the Candelabra – This 2013 biopic chronicling the final decade of Liberace’s life—much of it spent in the desert—is gloriously over the top. The costumes, set design, and desert filming locations (Palm Springs City Hall! Our Lady of Solitude Church! Casa de Monte Vista!) are worth the watch alone, and Rob Lowe delivers one of his most unforgettable performances.

Alpha Dog – While this true-crime drama, based on the real-life kidnapping and murder of a Los Angeles teenager, is undeniably harrowing, it’s also exceptionally well made. Along the way, you’ll spot several recognizable desert locations, including the Caliente Tropics Resort, the Koerner House in Deepwell Estates, and the Burgess House perched in the mountains above downtown Palm Springs.

Wait, so the Palm Springs Tram spins?

Yes, the Palm Springs Aerial Tramway spins. I learned that the hard way.

This question came from one of my Leadership Coachella Valleyclassmates after I lamented that our graduation ceremony would be taking place 8,516 feet up at the Mountain Station. I’d only ridden the Tram once before, and let’s just say it didn’t go well.

The rotating floor (which turns slowly during the Tram’s 12-minute ascent, giving passengers dazzling panoramic views of the Valley floor below), combined with the slight sway each time the car passes over one of the five cable support towers, made me incredibly motion sick—something I’d never suffered from before. It was so bad that after recovering with several homemade ginger ales and bitters at Peaks Restaurant—and a Dramamine courtesy of the bartender who thankfully took pity on me—I asked Tram staff how to arrange a car ride back down the mountain.

Their response? Not possible!

I was so desperate, I even asked if I could rent a helicopter. The answer, again, was a resounding no.

After politely informing everyone that I now apparently lived atop the mountain because there was no way I was getting back on that thing, I begrudgingly boarded for the trip down. Thankfully, the Dramamine had pretty much knocked me out by that point, and I made it back to the Valley Station without incident. But I promptly vowed never to ride the Tram again.

And I didn’t—until Leadership Coachella Valley scheduled our graduation at the top of the mountain. (I swear, LCV is the only thing that could ever get me back there!)

Determined not to relive my first experience, I asked several friends who regularly deal with motion sickness, as well as a pharmacist pal, for advice. They all had the same recommendation: 25 mg of meclizine hydrochloride (Bonine) about an hour before boarding. During the ride, I also sat with the conductor in the center of the Tram, where the floor mercifully doesn’t rotate, and kept my eyes closed during much of the trip, as the passing scenery was proving a bit too dizzying. Thankfully, it worked, and I was able to enjoy graduation without a hitch.

So yes, the Tram does indeed spin—but if you’re prone to motion sickness, there are a few simple steps you can take to make the ride doable. If you’re concerned, be sure to speak with your doctor or pharmacist before your visit.

Best hotel lobby to grab a drink?

True lobby bars are surprisingly rare in the desert. Many of our hotels—especially the boutique ones—are designed around courtyards, pools and desert scenery rather than grand lobbies, and those that do have dedicated lobby spaces often skip the bar altogether.

Fortunately, there are a handful of exceptions. Whether you’re looking to meet friends, enjoy a pre-dinner cocktail, or simply soak up a beautiful hotel atmosphere, these are the ones I’d recommend.

Window Bar at the Kimpton Rowan Palm Springs (pictured) – Aptly named, this inviting lounge is anchored by a massive picture window framing the San Jacinto Mountains. With leather armchairs, tufted sofas, velvet benches, floor-to-ceiling bookshelves, and a fireplace, it feels more like a beautifully styled library than a bar. Bonus: The hotel offers complimentary books for guests to keep, with copies of new titles tucked throughout Window Bar and the rest of the property, so you might just leave with a new favorite read.

Aquifer65 at the JW Marriott Desert Springs – It’s hard to beat the soaring lobby, massive lake, and overall grand scale of this resort. The JW also has the distinction of hosting Frank Sinatra’s final public performance, and the lobby bar pays tribute with its signature Sinatra Smash, made with Jack Daniel’s—Ol’ Blue Eyes’ spirit of choice. Stop by in the afternoon, and you may even catch Sinatra music, complimentary samples, and a special tribute to the Chairman of the Board.

Mini Bar at the Parker – This dreamy lounge is easily one of the desert’s prettiest establishments. Marbled, mirrored and feathered accents throughout evoke the glamour of the Jazz Age. The intimate six-stool bar fills quickly, but cocktails can also be enjoyed in the adjoining lounge. Even the menu embraces the glamour, with drinks bearing names like Pink & Pretty and The Gilded Peel, alongside small bites including the Bikini Sandwich with Jamón Ibérico and Gruyère cheese.

Del Rey at Villa Royale – Technically not a lobby bar, but too good to leave off the list, especially since it offers visitors a chance to admire the gorgeous Villa Royale hotel, which legend has it once served as the home of Olympic figure skater Sonja Henie. Centered around an oak-paneled bar with just eight seats, plus a handful of cozy booths and a romantic patio, it’s an ideal spot for wine, tapas, and dinner. (Those Croquetas De Langosta are calling my name!)

State Fare Bar & Kitchen at the Ritz-Carlton Rancho Mirage – More adjacent to the lobby than in it, but the views alone are reason enough to stop in. Overlooking nearly all of the Valley, this spot is truly breathtaking. And the fare is just as excellent. The Crispy Chicken Katsu Sandwich is a personal favorite.

Grapefruit Basil Bar at Tommy Bahama Miramonte – A true lobby bar that spills onto a beautiful patio tucked beneath an olive grove, complete with fireside seating. With Tommy Bahama’s signature island-inspired style, this spot feels like a tropical getaway in the heart of the desert. Don’t leave without ordering the Hummus & Whipped Feta—it’s one of my favorite things to eat in the entire Coachella Valley.

Thanks for reading!

One of the best parts of writing this newsletter is answering your questions, so don’t be shy—if there’s something you’ve always wondered about the desert, send it my way! Just reply to this email or message me on Instagram. And if your next question happens to be about buying or selling a home in the Coachella Valley, I’d love to help with that, too!